HVAC

The moment your AC stops working on a 95°F afternoon, you’re vulnerable. You need it fixed, you need it fixed today, and you have no idea what a fair price looks like. That’s exactly the position HVAC companies know you’re in — and some will take advantage of it. This guide is your defense. We’ve compiled real 2026 cost data across every common AC repair type so you walk into any service call knowing what fair looks like, what red flags sound like, and when a repair isn’t worth doing at all. Bottom line upfront: The average AC repair cost in 2026 ranges from $85 to $650 for common repairs. Emergency service adds $50–$150 to any job. A full compressor replacement can run $800–$2,800. Here’s what you should actually expect to pay — broken down by repair type. Quick Reference: AC Repair Cost by Type (2026) Repair Type Average Cost High End Service/diagnostic call $75–$150 $200 Air filter replacement (by tech) $20–$60 $100 Refrigerant recharge (R-410A) $150–$400 $600 Refrigerant recharge (R-22) $400–$900 $1,500+ Capacitor replacement $120–$250 $400 Contactor replacement $150–$300 $450 Fan motor replacement $300–$650 $900 Evaporator coil cleaning $100–$400 $600 Condenser coil cleaning $75–$200 $350 Thermostat replacement $150–$500 $700 Evaporator coil replacement $800–$1,900 $2,800 Compressor replacement $800–$2,800 $3,500 Ductwork repair/sealing $300–$1,000 $3,000+ Full AC system replacement $3,500–$8,000 $12,000+ Costs include parts and labor. Regional variation applies. AC Repair Cost Breakdown by Repair Type 1. Refrigerant Recharge: $150–$400 (R-410A) What it is: Refrigerant is the chemical compound that absorbs heat from your home’s air and releases it outside. When refrigerant levels are low (always due to a leak), cooling capacity drops significantly. Why it fails: Refrigerant doesn’t deplete naturally. Low levels always indicate a leak in the system — at the coil, the lines, or fittings. A responsible technician will always locate and repair the leak before recharging. Cost breakdown: R-22 (Freon) caveat: If your system was installed before 2010, it likely uses R-22, which was phased out of production in 2020. Remaining supply is expensive. A single-pound R-22 recharge can cost $100–$200 per pound. If you’re paying $400+ just for refrigerant on an older system, a full replacement conversation is warranted. DIY possibility: None. EPA regulations prohibit unlicensed individuals from purchasing or handling regulated refrigerants. Repair vs. replace threshold: If a refrigerant leak requires evaporator or condenser coil replacement and your unit is 10+ years old, replacement often makes more financial sense. 2. Capacitor Replacement: $120–$250 What it is: The capacitor is an electrical component that stores and releases energy to start and run the AC’s motors (the compressor and fan motors). Without a functioning capacitor, the motors can’t start or run efficiently. Why it fails: Heat is the primary enemy of capacitors. Units in hot climates fail more frequently. The average capacitor lifespan is 10–20 years, but in high-heat environments, failure at 5–10 years is common. Cost breakdown: DIY possibility: Technically possible, but capacitors store a lethal electrical charge even when the unit is unplugged. This is a job for a licensed technician. The part is inexpensive; the labor reflects the expertise and safety required. Red flag: Any company charging more than $350 for a capacitor replacement on a standard residential unit is likely overcharging. 3. Contactor Replacement: $150–$300 What it is: The contactor is an electrical relay that switches power to the compressor and condenser fan motor when the thermostat calls for cooling. A failing contactor can cause the AC to not start, short cycle, or run continuously. Why it fails: The contactor’s electrical contacts pit and burn over time from repeated electrical arcing. Pest damage (insects are attracted to the warmth and sometimes get inside the contactor) also causes premature failure. Signs of a bad contactor: AC doesn’t start at all, you hear a clicking sound but the unit doesn’t run, or the system runs continuously without shutting off. DIY possibility: Low. The contactor sits near high-voltage components. Professional replacement is strongly recommended. 4. Fan Motor Replacement: $300–$650 What it is: Your AC system has two fan motors — the blower motor (moves air over the indoor evaporator coil) and the condenser fan motor (exhausts heat from the outdoor unit). Either can fail independently. Why it fails: Worn bearings, overheating, age, and lack of lubrication are the primary causes. Condenser fan motors are particularly prone to failure because they operate in harsh outdoor conditions. Signs of a failing fan motor: Cost breakdown: 5. Evaporator Coil Replacement: $800–$1,900 What it is: The evaporator coil is the indoor component over which warm air passes to be cooled. It’s where refrigerant absorbs heat from your home’s air. Why it fails: Corrosion is the leading cause — particularly from formaldehyde off-gassing from certain building materials and from acidic condensate water. A cracked or corroded coil leaks refrigerant and loses efficiency. This is one of the repair-vs-replace decision points: An evaporator coil replacement on a 10+ year-old system is a significant investment in aging equipment. Get a full system quote alongside the repair quote. 6. Compressor Replacement: $800–$2,800 What it is: The compressor is the most critical component in your AC system. It circulates refrigerant and creates the pressure differentials that make cooling possible. A failed compressor means total loss of cooling. Why it fails: Low refrigerant (the compressor overheats without adequate refrigerant), electrical failures, age, and overheating from poor maintenance. The warranty question: Most compressors carry a 5–10 year manufacturer warranty. Check your original installation paperwork or the model number on the unit before authorizing an out-of-warranty replacement. Many homeowners have paid for a compressor replacement that should have been covered. When to replace the whole system instead: If your compressor fails and your unit is more than 10 years old, replacement of the full system is often the financially superior choice. You’re paying $800–$2,800 to repair an aging system that still has aging coils, aging electrical components, and older refrigerant technology. 7. Thermostat Replacement: $150–$500 What it is: The thermostat reads your home’s temperature and signals the AC

It’s the middle of summer. Your AC is humming away, you can hear the fan running, the thermostat says it’s doing its job — but your house feels like a sauna. You’re not imagining it. And you’re definitely not alone. “AC running but not cooling” is one of the most common service calls HVAC technicians receive between June and August. The good news: in many cases, the fix is simpler (and cheaper) than you think. The bad news: if you ignore certain causes, a $150 repair can turn into a $2,500 equipment failure. This guide walks you through every likely cause, how to diagnose it yourself, what it’ll cost to fix, and when you need to call a professional immediately. Quick Answer: Why Is My AC Running But Not Cooling? The 8 most common reasons your AC runs without cooling your home: Keep reading for a full diagnosis guide on each cause, including how to spot it, what it costs to fix, and when to call a pro. Section 1: Dirty or Clogged Air Filter The Most Common Culprit — And the Cheapest Fix If your AC is running but not cooling, the first thing you should check before calling anyone is your air filter. A clogged filter is responsible for a surprising number of “broken AC” calls — and the fix costs under $20. Here’s what happens: Your AC pulls warm air from inside your home, passes it over the cold evaporator coil, and returns cooled air through your vents. The air filter sits in that path to catch dust, pollen, pet dander, and debris. When it gets too clogged, airflow is severely restricted. Without adequate airflow: How to Check Your Filter Locate your air filter — it’s typically in the return air vent (a large vent, usually on a wall or ceiling) or inside the air handler unit itself. Pull it out and hold it up to a light source. How Often Should You Replace It? Filter Type Replacement Interval Basic fiberglass (MERV 1–4) Every 30 days Standard pleated (MERV 8–10) Every 60–90 days High-efficiency (MERV 11–13) Every 90–120 days HEPA / High MERV (14+) Every 6–12 months (check monthly) Homes with pets, allergies, or multiple occupants should replace filters on the shorter end of these ranges. What MERV Rating Should You Use? MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value) measures how well a filter captures particles. For most homes, MERV 8–11 is the sweet spot — effective enough to protect your system and your air quality without restricting airflow too much. Going higher than MERV 13 in a system not designed for it can actually cause airflow problems similar to a clogged filter. Cost to fix: $5–$25 for a replacement filter. If your filter is clean and your AC still isn’t cooling, move on to the next potential cause. If your filter is clean and your AC still isn’t cooling your home, it’s time to call a professional. Contact ServiceMasterHub for a free diagnostic visit. Section 2: Low Refrigerant / Freon Leak Why Your AC Literally Cannot Cool Without Refrigerant Refrigerant (commonly called Freon, though that’s technically a brand name for R-22) is the chemical that makes cooling possible. It cycles between the indoor and outdoor units, absorbing heat from inside your home and releasing it outside. Without enough refrigerant, your AC physically cannot transfer heat — and your home stays warm no matter how long the system runs. Here’s a critical point most homeowners don’t know: your AC doesn’t “use up” refrigerant like a car uses gas. If your refrigerant is low, it means there’s a leak somewhere in the system. Simply recharging it without finding and fixing the leak is like pouring water into a bucket with a hole — it’ll just leak out again. Signs You Have a Refrigerant Leak The EPA Regulation You Need to Know Refrigerant handling is federally regulated. Under Section 608 of the Clean Air Act, only EPA-certified HVAC technicians are legally permitted to handle, recover, or recharge refrigerants. This is not a DIY repair under any circumstances. An additional issue: R-22 (Freon), which was used in older AC systems, was phased out of production on January 1, 2020. If you have a pre-2010 system still running on R-22, the refrigerant is increasingly scarce and expensive. A recharge of an R-22 system can now cost significantly more than recharging a newer R-410A system. Refrigerant Leak Repair Cost Service Average Cost Refrigerant recharge (R-410A) $150–$400 Refrigerant recharge (R-22) $400–$1,500+ Leak detection $100–$200 Leak repair (minor) $200–$500 Leak repair (major / coil replacement) $600–$2,000+ When to Replace Instead of Recharge If your system uses R-22 and requires a significant recharge, the repair-vs-replace calculation often favors replacement. Modern R-410A systems are significantly more efficient, and new refrigerant standards (R-32 and R-454B) are now entering the market in 2026 with even better environmental profiles. Section 3: Frozen Evaporator Coil Why Your AC Might Be Turning Into an Icebox It sounds counterintuitive — your AC is supposed to produce cold air, so why is ice forming on it a problem? When ice coats the evaporator coil, it acts as an insulating layer that actually prevents the coil from absorbing heat from your home’s air. The result: air blows over a block of ice and comes out barely cooled, or the system shuts down entirely. What Causes the Coil to Freeze? Two main causes: Less common causes include a dirty coil (debris insulates it), a faulty blower motor, or a refrigerant metering device malfunction. How to Identify a Frozen Coil How to Safely Thaw a Frozen Evaporator Coil ⚠️ Turn off your AC immediately if you see ice forming and call ServiceMasterHub. Continuing to run a frozen system can burn out the compressor — turning a $200 repair into a $2,000 one. Section 4: Dirty Condenser Coils (Outdoor Unit) When the Outside Unit Can’t Do Its Job The outdoor unit of your AC system — the big metal box with a fan on top sitting outside your